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Rodent control

Rat and mouse control for Auckland homes and businesses

Almost every rodent call we take in Auckland starts the same way, with scratching overhead somewhere between nine at night and two in the morning, or droppings appearing in a pantry that was clean a week earlier. What differs is what is actually producing it, and that matters far more than most people expect, because a treatment plan built for the wrong species will reduce the noise for a fortnight and then fail.

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Getting rid of rats and mice: the short version

Auckland has three urban rodent species and they behave differently. Ship rats live above you in ceilings and hedges, Norway rats live below you in subfloors, drains and compost, and house mice nest inside wall cavities close to food. Identifying which one you have determines where bait and traps go, and getting that wrong is the single most common reason a rodent problem comes back.

So the first thing we do is work out what we are dealing with. Droppings, gnaw marks, runs, grease trails and the location of the activity all point in a particular direction, and by the end of an inspection we can normally tell you the species, roughly how established the population is, and which part of the building they are getting in through.

The three species, and why the difference is not academic

The ship rat (Rattus rattus, also known as the black rat or roof rat) is the one Auckland deals with most. It is an agile climber that travels along fence lines, power cables and branches touching the roofline, gets in through gaps at the eaves, and prefers to live above ground level. In practice that means ceiling cavities, wall voids at first floor level, dense hedging and other vegetation against the house, and palm crowns. If your noise is overhead, this is very probably your animal. If you are still not sure what is up there, our guide to working out what is in your ceiling goes through the timing, the sound and the droppings.

The Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus, the brown rat) is heavier, a poor climber and a strong burrower, and it works at ground level and below. We find it in subfloors, in stormwater and wastewater lines with broken junctions, under decking, in compost bins and along stream margins. Auckland has a great deal of older earthenware drainage, and a cracked gully trap is a standing invitation. Both rats arrived in New Zealand with European shipping, and both are now common across Auckland.

The house mouse needs a gap of about six millimetres and very little food, and unlike either rat it will happily nest inside a wall cavity within a few metres of a kitchen. Mice also produce far more droppings than people assume, which is why a mouse problem often looks worse than a rat problem while being considerably easier to resolve.

What we do about it, and what we will not do

The most effective rat control is a combination rather than a product: snap traps and bait stations placed on the runs the animals actually use, chosen for the species you have, followed by closing the way in. Bait has a place in that, but it is not the whole answer and it is not always the right first move. Where we use it, it goes into a lockable, tamper-resistant bait station secured so it cannot be moved by a child or a dog, and we record every placement on the treatment sheet so you know exactly where they are and so they can be recovered later. If you would like to try first yourself, our guide to choosing between rat traps and bait inside the house sets out which trap, where it goes and when bait is the wrong tool.

Where a property backs onto a reserve, sits inside a community trapping area, or has cats, dogs or young children, we will normally propose trapping as the primary method, or a first generation anticoagulant rather than a second generation one. Second generation products persist in the carcass, and a poisoned rat that dies in the open is available to a morepork, a kāhu or somebody's dog. In a city that has invested as heavily in urban predator control as Auckland has, defaulting to brodifacoum in a suburban back garden is poor practice. We have set out why rat bait is a risk to dogs and cats through secondary poisoning, and what to choose instead.

The part that actually ends the problem is exclusion. Rodents are not generated by your house, they walk into it, and until the route is shut the population outside will keep refilling the space you clear. Every inspection includes a list of the gaps we found, where they are, and what will close them. What will close them is usually galvanised mesh, sheet metal or mortar rather than foam, and our guide to rodent proofing a house explains which materials a rat cannot chew through and which it can.

Rats and mice in the walls or under the floor

Scratching or running inside a wall usually means a rat or a mouse is travelling through the cavity between the subfloor and the ceiling, using it as a corridor rather than living in the middle of it. That is why we trap where the cavity is entered, from the subfloor, at service penetrations and along the top plate, and only seal the wall once the activity has stopped, because sealing a live cavity shuts the animal inside to die there.

Under the floor is nearly always Norway rat territory. A rodent infestation that starts below the house usually comes in through subfloor vent mesh that has perished or been taken out, a failed earthenware drain or a gully trap that has lost its water seal, or a burrow dug against the foundations, and from the subfloor the rats follow the pipes where they enter the house up into the kitchen and the wall cavities. That calls for work at ground level, in the subfloor and around the drains, and bait laid in the ceiling does nothing for it.

Mice behave differently. They nest inside the cavity itself, usually within a few metres of the kitchen, behind the dishwasher or the oven, and they need a gap of only about 6 mm to reach it. A mouse that is living in the wall beside the kitchen is often something you can deal with yourself, and our guide to getting rid of mice in the house sets out how.

The reason we do not leave either of them for long is the gnawing. Rodent incisors never stop growing, so an animal living in a cavity is chewing constantly, and what gets worn down is cable sheathing, plastic pipe and the edges of the framing. Gnawed electrical wiring inside a wall is a fire risk, and if you find chewed cable, turn that circuit off and call an electrician before anything else is done. If you are not yet sure what you are hearing, the signs that rats are living in the house are droppings, rub marks and gnawing, in that order of usefulness.

Ceiling insulation, and the question nobody asks first

If rodents have been in a ceiling for a season or more, the insulation is usually contaminated with urine and droppings, and it will hold the smell and the scent trails that draw the next animal in. We will tell you honestly whether yours needs replacing, which is a separate job from pest control and one we do not profit from. While we are in the roof space or under the floor we also note any borer in the framing and whether it looks live, since the same inspection covers both.

There is a health risk to this too. Rat urine can carry Leptospira, the bacteria that cause leptospirosis in people, and rat droppings and urine mean contamination of stored food and anything they settle on. Wear gloves, dampen droppings rather than sweeping them dry, and if you become unwell after a clean-up, tell your doctor you have been handling rodent waste.

It is worth knowing that rodent urine in ceiling insulation is a recognised issue for landlords under the Healthy Homes Standards, because insulation that is damp, damaged or contaminated does not meet the standard. If you manage a rental, that finding belongs in your maintenance record.

Identification

Telling them apart from the evidence

Telling them apart from the evidence
SignShip ratNorway ratHouse mouse
Droppings12–13 mm, thin, pointed ends18–20 mm, blunt, capsule shaped3–6 mm, thin, dark, scattered
Where you hear itCeiling, upper wall, roof spaceSubfloor, under deck, drainsWall cavity near the kitchen
Route inBranches, cables, roof junctionsGround level gaps, drains, air ventsAny gap above 6 mm
Typical nestCeiling insulation, palm crown, hedgeBurrow, subfloor, compostInsulation, cavity, stored boxes
Other signsGrease rub marks along rafters and cables, gnawed cable sheathingSmear marks at ground level holes, burrows against foundationsSmall smear marks, shredded paper or insulation, gnawed food packets

How we do it

How a rodent job runs, visit by visit

  1. We identify before we treat

    Droppings, runs, gnaw damage and the timing of the noise tell us the species and roughly how long it has been going on.

  2. We agree the method with you

    Bait, traps or both, and where they go, taking pets, children, wildlife and any community trapping in your street into account.

  3. We treat and map every placement

    Stations are secured and recorded, so nothing is left unaccounted for at the end.

  4. We come back and verify

    Uptake, activity and whether the entry points have been closed. Rodent work is not finished on the first visit and we do not pretend otherwise.

  5. We give you the exclusion list

    Every gap we found, with its location and what will close it, in writing.

Cost

What rat and mouse control costs in Auckland

Indicative ranges. Confirmed in writing after inspection.
JobWhat it coversIndicative
Single visit, small property One species, standard house, bait or traps set and entry survey $185 – $260
Standard rodent programme Initial treatment plus one verification visit at 10 to 14 days $290 – $420
Larger or repeat infestation Multiple harbourage points, subfloor and roof, three visits $450 – $700
Commercial premises Documented station map, scheduled servicing, audit ready records from $620 per year
Rodent proofing Entry survey plus sealing within reach: subfloor and wall vent mesh, pipe and cable penetrations, door gaps usually $280 – $560, quoted after a survey

Prices include GST. See the full pricing page for what moves a job within its range.

Questions

Rats, mice and rodent bait: what people ask us

How much does rat control cost in Auckland?

A single visit to a standard house runs about $185 to $260, and a full rodent programme with a verification visit is usually $290 to $420. Larger infestations reaching both the subfloor and the roof space, which need three visits, sit between $450 and $700. Commercial sites are quoted annually. The range reflects the size of the building and how many harbourage points have to be covered, and we confirm the figure in writing after inspecting.

Why do I only hear them at night?

Both rat species are nocturnal and most active in the few hours after dark and again before dawn. Hearing activity during daylight generally means the population has grown enough that competition is pushing animals to forage outside peak hours, which we treat as a sign of an established rather than a recent problem.

Is rodent bait safe around my dog and my cat?

Bait is placed inside lockable tamper-resistant stations that are secured in position, so direct access is not the main risk. The real risk is secondary poisoning, where a pet eats a poisoned rodent. That risk is much higher with second generation anticoagulants such as brodifacoum, which is why in households with pets we normally recommend trapping or a first generation product instead. Tell us about your animals and we will plan around them.

Will the rats die in my walls and smell?

It is possible, and we will not tell you otherwise. Anticoagulant baits take several days to work and the animal chooses where it dies. Trapping avoids the problem entirely because the carcass is recovered, which is one of the reasons we suggest traps in occupied bedrooms, in ceiling spaces above living areas and in food premises. A sudden burst of large metallic blowflies in one room often shows where it happened, and our page on flies in the house explains how to tell them from other flies.

When is rodent season in Auckland?

Activity climbs sharply from about March as night temperatures fall and outdoor food supply drops, and complaints peak between April and July. Auckland's winters are mild enough that populations do not crash, so a problem left over autumn is usually still there in spring, just quieter.

My landlord says the rats are my problem. Are they?

Generally no. Under the Residential Tenancies Act the landlord must provide and maintain premises in a reasonable state of repair, and rodents entering through structural gaps, damaged subfloor vents or failed drainage is a maintenance matter. Where a tenant's own food storage or rubbish is clearly causing it, responsibility can shift. We provide a written treatment record with findings either way, which is usually what resolves the argument. There is more on who pays for pest control in a rental.

Can I just use supermarket bait myself?

For one mouse, often yes. For rats it usually fails, and the two common reasons are placement and bait shyness. Bait left in the wrong place is simply ignored, and a rat that takes a sub-lethal dose learns to avoid that flavour, which makes the job harder for whoever comes next. If you have already baited without success, tell us what you used, because it changes what we do.

Will a pest controller actually get rid of the rats?

Yes, for the animals living in the building now. A properly placed programme of traps and bait stations usually clears the resident population within a few weeks, and the verification visit at 10 to 14 days is how we confirm it rather than assume it. What no treatment does on its own is stop the next rat arriving, which is why the job ends with a written list of the entry points and what will close them.

Is there a way to get rid of rats permanently?

Only by keeping them out, because poison removes the rats you have and nothing else. Close every gap over about 12 mm for rats and 6 mm for mice, cut back branches touching the roofline, fit mesh over subfloor vents, and keep pet food, chicken feed and compost in sealed containers. Then keep a trap or two set where they used to run. A section backing onto a reserve will always see new arrivals, and there a maintained trap line is the honest answer.

What smells do rats dislike, and does anything repel them immediately?

Nothing that lasts. Peppermint oil and other smell-based repellents are widely sold, but university pest guidance finds no repellent that has kept rats away for more than a short time, and plug-in ultrasonic units fail because rats quickly get used to the sound. What actually moves them on is removing the food and shelter around the house and blocking the route in.

What is a rat's biggest enemy in New Zealand?

In the garden it is usually a cat, and in the wider landscape morepork, kāhu (the swamp harrier), stoats and ferrets all take rats and other rodents. That food chain is the reason we are careful with bait. A predator that eats a rat carrying a persistent second generation anticoagulant takes in the poison too, so in suburbs with native birds we lean on traps and less persistent products.

Guides

Rat and mouse guides, from the first noise to keeping them out

Identification

What is in my ceiling?

What the noise in your ceiling at night is, from its timing, sound and droppings, and how rats are got out of an Auckland roof space, with or without poison.

Read this
Rats

Rats in the house: the signs, and how to get rid of them

The signs of rats in the house, what rats in the walls or roof mean, telling rat droppings from mouse droppings, and how to get rid of rats for good.

Read this
Mice

How to get rid of mice

How to get rid of mice in an Auckland house: confirm it is mice, trap where they run, seal the 6 mm gaps, and the 5 day mouse rule tested against the evidence.

Read this
Traps and bait

Rat traps or bait: what works inside the house

Rat and mouse traps or bait for inside a New Zealand house: which trap type, where it goes, bait shyness, children and pets, and when to stop doing it yourself.

Read this
Safety

Is rat bait safe for dogs and cats?

The real risk to dogs and cats from rat bait is secondary poisoning from a poisoned rodent. What that means for product choice, and what to do if your pet eats bait.

Read this
Prevention

Rodent proofing: keeping rats and mice out for good

Rodent proofing an Auckland house: the 12 mm and 6 mm gaps that matter, which mesh and fillers rats cannot chew, and why repellents and ultrasonic plugs fail.

Read this
Tenancy

Who pays for pest control in a rental?

Whether the landlord or the tenant pays for pest control in a New Zealand rental, what the Residential Tenancies Act requires, and what decides borderline cases.

Read this

Dealing with rodents?

Describe what you have seen, or send a photograph. We will tell you what it is and what it needs before anyone visits.